photo by the_toe_stubber on Flickr
My partner, Lisa, has been involved with the Mystery Writers of America for the last several years. We've been to several of their events including lectures, book signings and mixers. They recently set MWA members and their friends with a Raymond Chandler tour of downtown Los Angeles and the Hollywood area. The tour is conducted by Esotouric Tours, run by the husband and wife team of Richard Schave and Kim Cooper along with other guest narrators like James Ellroy, the mystery author. Esotouric runs not only the Raymond Chandler tour, but covers other subjects like Charles Bukowski, Black Dahlia and Route 66. It's my first tour with them, but it won't be my last. Lisa and I had a great time.
Hotel Barclay (1896)
The Raymond Chandler tour costs just under $60 and for that you get almost 4 hours of top-quality tour bus commentary and many, many stops at important locations connected with Raymond Chandler and his works. We started at the venerable Clifton's Cafateria in downtown Los Angeles with a tasty meal in a wild decor. The tour starts on the 3rd floor of Clifton's (where a lot of pictures and displays of the restaurant are located) with an cheerful orientation by tour guide Richard Schave, who appears to have an encyclopedic knowledge of Los Angeles/Chandler history. Once in the bus (very comfortable and cool) we headed over to sites related to Chandler like the Barclay Hotel (wonderful single-room-occupancy turn of the century hotel), The Giannini Building (where Chandler worked in the oil industry), the Oviatt Building (the lobby is wonderful LA art deco) and ending up out in Hollywood with Musso and Franks restuarant and the original location of the Stanley Rose Bookshop, where Chandler and many other literati met and drank in the backroom.
Inside the Oviatt building
In between stops, we'd watch clips from various Chandler movies and Richard, along with his wife Kim and Joan Renner, would read aloud from Chandlers works and letters. We'd also be regaled with stories about Chandler's life in Hollywood, especially his relationship with director Billy Wilder while Chandler was writing the screenplay for Double Indemnity. The stories were sometimes hilarious, but with a dark aspect to them, too.
old postcard w/pix of Musso's
I was particularly excited to see the original location of the Stanley Rose bookshop, which I've often wondered about but didn't know. Stanley Rose was a kind of fake bookseller in that he set up a bookshop as a front for providing bootleg liqour to individual and to the studio (Paramount to be specific). Somehow, the store caught on and many literary figures met there and hung out in the back room to chat and write. I knew the location was near Musso's, but Richard pointed out the exact place based on his research using pictures and documents. Now, the place is a t-shirt shop, but it wasn't hard to imagine the bookshop and rows of bookshelves. You'd come out of Musso and Franks and head over to Stanley's.
Original stained-glass at Hotel Barclay.
Eventually, after driving through some wonderful LA neighborhoods that look almost unchanged from the twenties/thirties, we made it back to Clifton's and said goodbye. Both Lisa and I thoroughly enjoyed the Raymond Chandler tour. It was informative, entertaining and a lot of fun. I highly recommend this tour or any of the other tours that Esotouric runs. This short blog post only touches on a few of the fascinating aspects of this tour. If you are in Los Angeles at some point, give the tours a try.
saw this old film palace on the tour